We took it as a good sign that the menu was slightly different from the one listed online. When a chef is committed to using only the highest quality ingredients available to her on any given day, the menu might change no matter how inconvenient it may be for the kitchen & staff.
After getting over the initial disappointment of not being able to order the lobster paella and chicken liver tagliatelle we had been thinking about on the rainy ride to the Mission District, I focused on the menu in my hands. It being such a cold & wet winter evening, we agreed to comfort ourselves with a selection of Niman Ranch proteins. I cook mostly fish for myself at home so I was excited at getting my fix of red meat.
The black pepper and rosemary scented olive oil that came with the crusty bread was flavorful enough to keep us from asking for balsamic. Behind us is a single row of tables squeezed so close together it looks like it would be impossible for the person sitting against to wall to get out without having to slide sideways and ask for an apology from her neighbor. We were seated at the bar because the place was packed and we had no reservations, but it gave us a perfect view down the line. Imagine how organized 2 cooks have to be in an undersized kitchen serving 40 occupied seats. It was entertaining watching chef/owner Leslie Avalos roast chicken, sauté skate wing, slice flatbread, and scoop ice cream all at the same time.
Delivered much sooner than we expected considering the circumstances, the rustic offerings stood in sharp contrast to the industrial setting. I knew right off the bat from the deep color on the meat and the way it quivered when the server put our plates down that we were in for a treat. Red-wine braised short ribs (16) w/ winter greens and pecorino are served over a fresh linguine just toothsome enough to withstand what little amount of chewing it took before the buttery beef fell apart in your mouth. Braised lamb shoulder (19) is paired with creamy white beans, wilted spinach, and a garnish of pomegranates, whose berry explosion served as a reminder of how the mellow meat was marinated. For dessert, warm persimmon pudding cake (6) w/ grappa chantilly called for a moment of silence. I opened my eyes to Leslie joking, ‘Should I make you another?”
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